A Culinary Sanctuary Rooted in Tradition
There are meals that satisfy, and then there are meals that change you. At Naagan, a tiny 17-seat restaurant tucked away in Owen Sound, Ontario, Chef Zach Keeshig is quietly redefining what it means to dine in Canada. His approach - progressive Indigenous cuisine - doesn’t just feed the body; it nourishes the soul, weaving together land, memory, and innovation in every bite.
The Land as Muse
Step inside Naagan and you’ll find yourself on the edge of something extraordinary. The air hums with anticipation as guests settle in for a 12-course tasting menu that’s as much a story as it is a meal. Each dish is a reflection of the Nawash territory, crafted from ingredients foraged, hunted, or fished from the surrounding land. Wild game, sweetgrass, sea buckthorn, and herbs picked just hours before service - these are the flavors of a place, and of a people.
From Humble Beginnings to Culinary Vanguard
Chef Keeshig’s journey began far from the world of Michelin stars. Raised by a single mother, he learned to cook out of necessity, transforming humble ingredients into moments of comfort for his family. It wasn’t until later, after training in some of Canada’s top kitchens, that he realized the power of Indigenous food to tell a deeper story. Why, he wondered, were there so few Indigenous restaurants? Why wasn’t Indigenous cuisine celebrated alongside French or Italian?
At Naagan, Keeshig answers those questions with every plate. His food is a celebration of resilience - a testament to the creativity and pride of Indigenous communities reclaiming traditions that were once suppressed. The menu is ever-evolving, shaped by the seasons and the bounty of the land. One night, you might taste pigeon glazed with magnolia vinegar and birch syrup, garnished with anise hyssop and onion blossoms from the garden, served alongside wild cherry puree and pickled aronia berries. Another, you’ll sip a house-made cherry drink, crafted from fruit gathered nearby, paired with a sorbet course that’s as refreshing as it is meaningful.
More Than a Meal: A Living Narrative
Naagan is more than a restaurant - it’s a classroom, a stage, and a sanctuary. Keeshig’s “show and tell” philosophy invites diners to engage with the food on a deeper level. When chaga appears in a dessert, he brings the mushroom itself to the table, encouraging guests to touch, smell, and learn its story. Each course is an invitation to connect: with the land, with the chef, and with the traditions that have shaped this place for generations.
Thoughtful Choices, Lasting Impact
There’s a quiet radicalism in Keeshig’s choices. Alcohol is absent from the menu, a decision rooted in personal and community healing. Instead, guests are treated to inventive, non-alcoholic pairings - beverages brewed from foraged ingredients, each thoughtfully matched to the flavors of the meal. It’s a gesture that honors the struggles and triumphs of Indigenous peoples, and one that sets Naagan apart in the world of fine dining.
Language, too, is central to the experience. The name “Naagan”, Ojibwe for “dish”, is a reclamation of identity and a celebration of linguistic heritage. Through food, Keeshig is helping to revive and share the language of his ancestors, inviting guests to learn and appreciate its beauty.
The Invitation
Dining at Naagan is not just about eating; it’s about participating in a living narrative. It’s about understanding that food can be a bridge - between cultures, between past and present, between land and table. Chef Zach Keeshig’s work is a reminder that the most memorable journeys are those that transform us, leaving us with a deeper sense of connection and wonder.
Reservations at Naagan are coveted, often selling out a month in advance. But for those lucky enough to secure a seat, the experience is unforgettable. A celebration of land, legacy, and the limitless creativity of Indigenous cuisine.
